Slow Food's Presidia: what do small producers do with big retailers?

The paper deals with the transformation of local agrofood systems, in the context of the turn to ‘‘the economy of qualities’’ and the rural development paradigm. A case study from Italy is discussed, specifically an agreement between Slow Food and Coop Italia concerning the Ark of Taste’s Presidia, aiming at the protection of typical products and food traditions. The agreement is analysed as a change of strategy, implying a transformation of the local agrofood system from ‘‘local production for local consumers’’ to ‘‘local production for distant consumers’’. The change is substantial and implies a restructuring of the entire local food network.